I don’t make angel food cake because I don’t like angel food
cake, and yet, it appears that I have made an angel food cake. Let me explain.
As I mentioned a couple of weeks ago, I’ve been going through my
old recipes. This is partly an exercise in organization and partly an
archaeological dig into my own culinary past. One recipe I couldn’t find (and
have been looking for for years) was for chocolate feather cake. It was a
family friend’s iconic dessert. Anytime she was asked to bring a dessert to a
gathering, this was what she brought. And it wasn’t just a recipe she had
picked up somewhere along the way. It had been handed down to her by her
mother-in-law, who had gotten it from her mother, so this is an old recipe with
some history behind it. I had never actually eaten it.
That seemed like a fairly significant omission, particularly
since I was already in the midst of reliving the past one recipe card at a
time. So when I finally found the recipe, I had to make it.
There was just one little problem.
Fifteen egg whites.
Yes. Fifteen.
Which means, of course, that there are also fifteen egg yolks
sitting on your counter looking at you accusingly.
I managed to put those yolks to good use. They
ended up in a meatball
pasta dish, chicken à la King, and a swoonably delicious butterscotch pudding. The remaining yolks got a little salt, a good whisking, and a trip to the freezer to think
about what they might become when I get around to them.
And then there was the cake.
Despite my general lack of enthusiasm for angel food cake, I
have to admit that this one is delicious. It is light and spongy, certainly,
but the chocolate is intense enough to make you forget that you are,
essentially, eating a very tall chocolate cloud.
The recipe card I uncovered is heavily stained, slightly foxed,
and has those wonderful crimped edges that immediately tell you it has been
around for a while. Someone wrote on the card that the cake freezes beautifully
and retains its texture when thawed.
I believe it.
And while I still wouldn’t exactly say that I’ve become an angel
food cake convert, I understand now why this particular cake was so beloved. Sometimes the old recipes know what they’re doing.
Chocolate Feather Cake
This makes one tall cake in a 10-inch tube pan, about 4 inches
deep.
2 c. sugar, divided
1½ c. cake flour
⅔ c. unsweetened
cocoa powder
15 large egg whites, at room temperature*
1½ t. vanilla extract
⅔ t. salt
1½ t. cream of tartar
Preheat the oven to 300°F.
Combine 1 cup of the sugar with the cake flour and cocoa powder.
Sift the mixture together three or four times. Yes, three or four times. This
is one of those old recipes that is not interested in your impatience.
In a large, impeccably clean mixing bowl, beat the egg whites
with the vanilla, salt, and cream of tartar until foamy.
Gradually add the remaining 1 cup of sugar while continuing to
beat. Keep beating until the meringue is very stiff—stiff enough that you can
turn the bowl upside down without the contents making a break for freedom.
Sift the flour-and-cocoa mixture over the meringue in several
additions, gently folding after each addition. Be careful not to overmix; the
whole point here is to preserve as much of that lovely air as possible.
Spoon the batter into an ungreased 10-inch tube pan.
Bake at 300°F for 30 minutes. Increase the oven temperature to
350°F and continue baking for another 30 minutes. Check the cake with a cake
tester or toothpick. It may need another 10–15 minutes. The tester should come
out almost clean, with perhaps a few moist crumbs.
Immediately invert the pan onto a bottle or cooling rack and
allow the cake to hang upside down until completely cool.
This keeps the cake from collapsing.
Once completely cool, run a thin knife around
the edges and tube of the pan to release the cake.
And there you have it: a very tall, very chocolaty, very
feather-light cake that I apparently made despite not liking angel food cake.
I suppose there are worse things that could happen when cleaning
out an old recipe box.
*A word about those 15 egg whites: Get yourself an egg separator. I recommend this one. It
makes the job ridiculously simple and quick as a flash, and I suspect you’re
going to discover plenty of uses for it in the future. It separates eggs
magnificently.
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