The John White Burger: A Taste of Famous-Barr Magic

 

When I was a little girl, one of the highlights of every month was lunch with my mother at the Jade Room Restaurant inside Famous-Barr, one of St. Louis’s grand department stores (now Macy’s). In those days, going out to dine meant dressing up—no slacks allowed. A hostess would seat us, and while we waited, elegantly dressed models would glide between the tables, showcasing the store’s newest fashions. Perfectly accessorized and lightly scented with the fragrance of the moment, they sometimes paused at our table to describe what they were wearing, its price, and available sizes. To a ten-year-old girl, it felt pure magic.

 Most often it was just Mother and me, though my dad would join us now and then. My order never changed: a simple hamburger, chocolate milk, and Jell-O.

 As the years passed, the lunches continued, even as the dress code relaxed and the menu evolved. The plain hamburger gave way to something far more decadent—the John White Burger. Named for a cook at the Clayton Famous-Barr location, this glorious sandwich featured a juicy patty topped with crispy onions and melted cheese. It eventually appeared at May Company department-store restaurants across the region and remained on the menu until White’s death, when his heirs sued over the name.

 I still crave that burger. In 2000, longtime Famous-Barr chef Eric Dahl shared the secret with Judith Evans of the Post-Dispatch: the onions. Slice them paper-thin and fry in about half an inch of hot oil or shortening until just light brown — any longer and they turn bitter. Drain well on paper towels.

 My secret? Ditch the onions and use shallots, Melissa’s shallots, to be precise. Slice them thinly on a mandoline like this one and fry the same as advised above. Assemble the burgers on toasted buns with grilled or broiled patties made from 85-percent-lean ground beef, those golden onions/shallots, and a thick rarebit sauce that clings perfectly.

 Dahl noted that the sauce contained American cheese, dry mustard, and Worcestershire. The recipe below captures that rich, nostalgic flavor beautifully. 

Rarebit Sauce for John White Burgers

 ½ lb. American cheese, cut into thin slices

¾ c. half-and-half

1 t. Worcestershire sauce

½ t. dry mustard

 Place the cheese in the top of a double boiler. Add the half-and-half, Worcestershire, and mustard. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the cheese melts completely.

 Yield: 4 servings

 One bite and I’m right back at that table with my mother, watching the models walk by and feeling the quiet magic of those special lunches. 

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