If one could acquire
a degree in the art of making macaroni and cheese (yes, that's right, I said
art), one would need to purchase and devour (if you'll pardon the pun) the new
book by Stephanie Stiavetti and Garrett McCord, Melt: The Art of Macaroni and Cheese. In this valuable
tome, no stone is left unturned when it comes to learning about this American
favorite, from the pasta base, the process of making the cheese, the wide
varieties, those best suited for combining with pasta, helpful wine pairings,
and some of the most unique mac and cheese recipes that I have ever encountered
along with mouthwatering photographs of these novel dishes. Consider if you
will, Roquefort Macaroni with Beets, Shallots, and Poppy Seeds; Drunken
Goat with Edamame, Fennel, and Rotini; Soba Noodles with Parmesan and
Pan-Seared Brussels Sprouts, to name a few.
It is pretty to look
at, informative, and unique. At first glance, it is overwhelming. Many of the
pastas and cheeses (a good many of them only regionally available) are a bit
obscure and not easily obtained by the average cook. Even in a city such as mine
with a thriving Italian neighborhood and numerous Italian specialty markets, I
was unable to find some of the pastas. A good many cheeses are unfamiliar as
well, although a list of suggested substitutions appears at the end of each
recipe, but even with various options I often came up empty. Many of the
combinations are a bit odd, the addition of various fruits in pasta salads
spring immediately to mind, as does a baked mac and cheese dish topped
with raspberry jam. But it is a book such as this one that encourages
the experimentation that allows us to reap the greatest rewards in our culinary
endeavors. Fruit in pasta salad is good! It lightens, refreshes, and
provides a hint of sweetness that brightens the dish.
The recipes are
written in a form that is conversational. Something new can be learned in
reading each one. If you thought that you knew macaroni and cheese, think
again. But the value of a book such as this one is in its simplicity.
Sandwiched in between some of the wilder concoctions are recipes for Tuna
Noodle Casserole, a velvety Mornay Sauce that is spot on, a hearty Chicken
Sausage Skillet casserole, a post-Thankgiving charmer called Turkey and Robusto
Mac and Cheeselets (individual pasta tarts baked in a muffin tin), and a soul
soothing Gruyere and Emmentaler Macaroni with Ham and Cubed Sourdough. The
recipe for Buffalo Chicken Macaroni with Buttermilk Bleu Cheese Sauce had my
mouth watering; I'll be serving this for Super Bowl.
The appendices at
the end of the book are ample and informative. Detailed information on both
pasta and cheese will answer almost any question that may arise during reading.
While I tried to be as authentic as possible when testing the recipes, it was
good to know that when I couldn’t find Gemelli that fusili would do. Still have
a question? A website has been created to accompany the book. You can
find it at: http://meltmacaroni.com
Meanwhile, give this
simple, but intensely flavorful pasta dish a try. Thumbs up all around from my
camp. Don't let the rather lengthy directions deter you from making it. I
have divided it by steps. It is really quite easy to do.
Petit Basque with Roasted Garlic, Shallots,
and Gemelli
To roast garlic:
2 whole heads garlic
2 Tablespoons olive
oil
Preheat oven to 400
degrees F. Peel off most of the outer paper (skin) on garlic. Using a
sharp knife, trim 1/4" off of the top of the bulb. Place garlic in a
small ramekin and drizzle with olive oil. Cover loosely with foil and roast
for 1 hour until soft; cool. Squeeze it out of its skin and mash with a fork.
NOTE: I did this the
day ahead of use and stored it in the refrigerator, with great results. Allow
it to come to room temperature before making the dish.
To make shallots:
2 Tablespoons olive
oil
1/2 cup diced
shallots (1 large bulb)
In a small saucepan,
heat olive oil over medium-low heat. Add shallots; cook until browned,
stirring occasionally, about 4 minutes. Remove from heat; set aside.
Cook pasta:
8 oz. Gemelli (or
other spiral pasta)
Cook according to
package directions. Drain. Set aside.
To make Mornay Sauce
and assemble pasta:
1-1/2 cups whole
milk
2 Tablespoons butter
2 Tablespoons
all-purpose flour
Sea salt
Freshly ground black
pepper
10 ounces Petit
Basque cheese, shredded
1 Tablespoon
chopped, fresh chives
Heat milk in small
saucepan over medium heat. When milk steams and bubbles form around the edge,
turn off heat.
In a medium
saucepan, melt butter over a medium flame. Add flour, stirring with a flat
wooden paddle until lightly brown, 2-3 minutes. Slowly add the warmed milk.
Cook until the mixture thickens and coats the back of a spoon. Stir
in mashed garlic. Add shallots and their cooking oil. Stir well. Remove
from heat. Stir in salt and pepper. Add cheese, stir until melted. Fold in
pasta. Stir in chives. Add salt and pepper to taste. Garnish with
additional chives. Serve immediately.
Disclaimer: I
received a digital copy of this book, prior to its publication, from NetGalley.
The opinions expressed in this review are my own.
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